by Holly A. Case
Szeged is a Hungarian university town near the border with Serbia where I spent my third year of college abroad in 1995-1996. When I arrived for the first time with a year's worth of luggage, the traffic in and out of the train station included a rail-bus that carried people in and smuggled goods out. A college friend from Belgrade knew Szeged as a grocery stop for cheese, catsup, juice, and gasoline, and wondered why on earth I wanted to spend a year abroad there. The wondrous strangeness of provincial towns near troubled borders is impossible to explain to people from the fast-talking capitals, yet these are the weighty time-space benders that have always attracted me: Klagenfurt, Szeged, Mardin…
There was money to be made selling gas to the embargoed Serbs in 1995, but since it entered illicitly inside the tanks of private cars to be siphoned out just across the border, none of it passed through the train station. I saw its effects later, where I rented a room in an apartment just down the street from the station for seventy dollars a month. The house, with greenhouse and rabbit farm (off-site), was connected to another whose owners had their fingers in countless post-communist pies, of which smuggling gas into Serbia was only one. My rent was deliberately lower than it might have been so long as I gave English lessons to the son of the family, who in his mid-teens was already doing so well that he didn't feel English was necessary.
