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Bill Murray

I write on Substack at csandw.substack.com. I’m a travel writer, photographer and lifetime traveler. I’ve visited 120 countries and territories. My most recent book is a collection of thirty essays from 3QuarksDaily called Out There, published in April 2021. I’ve also written books about travel to the Arctic, to Chernobyl and a collection of stories from around the world. My wife and I live in Georgia and spend most summers in a cabin on Lake Saimaa in Finland. I write at CommonSenseAndWhiskey.com and curate 20,000-plus photos from around the world at EarthPhotos.com. Email BillMurrayWriter [at] gmail.com.

Website: http://csandw.substack.com

On the Road: Southwest Africa

Posted on Monday, Mar 1, 2021 1:35AMMonday, March 1, 2021 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray Former Finnish President and Nobel laureate Martti Ahtisaari once gave a talk in our town and we went to see him. The distinguished gentleman who introduced him at Atlanta’s distinguished Piedmont Driving Club listed among Ahtisaari’s achievements “helping to achieve independence for Nambia.” We visited Nambia a few years back, and found…

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On the Road: Sri Lanka Part Two

Posted on Monday, Feb 1, 2021 1:15AMMonday, February 1, 2021 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray Politics as the family business works out better for some than for others. Last year Turkish President Erdogan had to fire his son-in-law Finance Minister. And the Trumps, well … you know. But things are working out pretty well for the Rajapaksas of Sri Lanka. The President is Gotabaya Rajapaksa, nickname “the…

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On the Road: Sri Lanka Part One

Posted on Monday, Jan 4, 2021 1:10AMMonday, January 4, 2021 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray In this column I write about international travel, especially travel to less understood parts of the world. This month, with such travel still a wee bit constrained, we start a two-part look back at Sri Lanka, April/May 1999: There are certain things a guidebook ought to level with you about right up front, before…

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On the Road: The Georgia Runoffs

Posted on Monday, Dec 7, 2020 1:25AMMonday, December 7, 2020 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray This column is about travel to less understood parts of the world. In yet another travel constrained month, how about a little political tourism here in Georgia, where none of us really understands the sordid late-Trump morality play swirling around our dual Senate runoffs. We still have thirty days to go. Unlikely…

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On the Road: Pass Control

Posted on Monday, Nov 9, 2020 1:35AMMonday, November 9, 2020 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray The northern Indian province of Sikkim, between Nepal and Bhutan, borders Tibet. To visit, non-Indians require an “Inner Line Permit/Restricted Area Permit” issued by the Government of Sikkim Tourism Department. It’s because of history. China chased the Dalai Lama from Lhasa over these mountains and off the throne in ’59. India took…

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On the Road in Pandemic America

Posted on Monday, Oct 12, 2020 1:10AMMonday, October 12, 2020 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray “Please take that back, sir.” The receptionist at Residence Inn by Marriott, Lexington, Kentucky, recoiled when I slipped my reservation confirmation onto the tabletop. Regrettably, they can not touch things at Residence Inn by Marriott. Surely we understand. After sheltering in place since March, we’d driven off in search of … we…

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On the Road: Ascension Island

Posted on Monday, Sep 14, 2020 1:05AMMonday, September 14, 2020 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray In last month’s column we sailed from Walvis Bay, Namibia, to St. Helena Island, 1800 miles from Angola, 1200 from Brazil, in the middle of the South Atlantic Ocean. This month we continue north to Ascension Island. When the Brits exiled Napoleon to St. Helena in 1815 they denied the emperor newspapers,…

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On the Road: The South Atlantic

Posted on Monday, Aug 17, 2020 1:35AMMonday, August 17, 2020 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray Once we thought we’d look into a cruise. As skeptics in principle, we agreed we’d have to choose carefully. We wouldn’t join an enforced entertainment experience with a thousand shipmates enduring professional smiles. We wouldn’t just pocket a few easy off-the-beaten-track conquests (although these look promising). The fun of those is getting…

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On the Road: Anguilla

Posted on Monday, Jul 20, 2020 1:15AMMonday, July 20, 2020 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray Anguilla is a sandbar ten miles long. It’s three miles wide if you’re being generous, but generous isn’t a word that pairs well with the endowments of a small, arid skerry of sand pocked with salt ponds. A seventeenth century history of the West Indies cursed Anguilla as a place “filled with…

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On the Road: Kathmandu to Lhasa in a Bad Mood

Posted on Monday, Jun 22, 2020 1:25AMMonday, June 22, 2020 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray While everybody dreams of getting out of town, here’s the story of a mostly hapless road trip my wife and I took several years ago: Ashray Raj Gautam waited in the dark before dawn. Men worked under the hood of his Toyota Corolla while we stuffed our things in its trunk. We…

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On the Road: Field Notes from the Wreckage of Tourism

Posted on Monday, May 25, 2020 1:25AMMonday, May 25, 2020 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray News from the leisure travel world is worse than grim. More than half of the 16 million travel industry jobs in the United States have been lost. On 14 April last year the TSA processed 2,208,688 air travelers. This year that number was 87,534.  It’s the same everywhere. Da Nang saw a…

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On the Road: Climbing Mt. Kinabalu

Posted on Monday, Apr 27, 2020 1:25AMMonday, April 27, 2020 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray A fine young man with a Yesus Kristus medallion bouncing around beneath his mirror drove us the seven or so kilometers into Mt. Kinabalu park, through the sleeping village of Kundasang. Farmers congregated at a warren of tin-roofed stalls along the main road. It looked like a good day for green tomatoes,…

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On the Road: Coping with Calamity

Posted on Monday, Mar 30, 2020 1:40AMMonday, March 30, 2020 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray Two minutes after the explosion the fire station alarm rang. The firefighters who scrambled from sleep to the scene, along with the regular overnight shift at reactor four, were among the first fatally irradiated. Unquestioned heroes, they battled the blazes until dawn with no special training for a nuclear accident, in shirtsleeves,…

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On the Road: Getting to Tasiilaq

Posted on Monday, Mar 2, 2020 1:25AMMonday, March 2, 2020 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray First thing we have to do, we have to find Robert. The men smoking outside the concrete block terminal are not Robert so I ask around inside. The man behind the check-in counter might as well be collecting Arctic tumbleweeds. No flights are pending; no one is checking in. He does not…

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On the Road: The Iowa Caucuses

Posted on Monday, Feb 3, 2020 1:30AMMonday, February 3, 2020 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray Banners waved, the converted preached and hawkers peddled hats, buttons, “Impeach This” sweatshirts and dodgy conspiracy theories. The sky hung sullen, frozen in the shade of dull cutlery. A big screen kept those outside Drake University’s Knapp Center apprised of the slow boil inside. Fire safety officials began to turn away an…

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On the Road: Ngorongoro Crater, Part 2

Posted on Monday, Jan 6, 2020 1:10AMMonday, January 6, 2020 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray This is Part Two in a series. Read Part One here. Sooner or later even the best laid plans come full stop at the bureaucrat’s desk. At the entrance to Ngorongoro crater, Tanzania, we pull up short at a moldy branch of officialdom, no less out of place than some forlorn Chinese…

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On the Road: Ngorongoro Crater

Posted on Monday, Dec 9, 2019 1:25AMMonday, December 9, 2019 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray Godfrey points the Land Rover toward Ngorongoro Crater. The road is fine to lull the unwary, but before you know it there is one lane, then no tarmac, then mud and potholes and empty hills. Close cropped with a natty little mustache, Godfrey is kempt, forties, paunch-softened,  with an easy smile. A…

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On the Road: Enemies

Posted on Monday, Nov 11, 2019 1:20AMMonday, November 11, 2019 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray Americans stood as implacable enemies of National Socialism. As an American myself, on the anniversary of the Berlin Wall’s fall, I want to tell you about my dear friend the Nazi soldier. “I don’t like Polish people,” he says, and raises an eyebrow suggesting “How could anybody, really?”  Among other things, it’s…

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On the Road: In the Zambian Bush

Posted on Monday, Oct 14, 2019 1:35AMMonday, October 14, 2019 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray Late morning heat rises in waves over tall grass. It’s an hour and a half drive, sand flies buzzing, to Luwi bush camp, a seasonal camp with just four huts of thatch and grass on a still lagoon, far out into Zambia’s South Luangwa National Park, about 300 miles north of Lusaka.…

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On the Road: Laundry Day in Abidjan

Posted on Monday, Sep 16, 2019 1:20AMMonday, September 16, 2019 by Bill Murray

by Bill Murray The first part of this century West Africa was no place to be. Liberia was led by Charles Taylor, now serving a fifty year sentence for “aiding and abetting as well as planning some of the most heinous and brutal crimes in recorded human history.” In Sierra Leone’s civil war, entire families were gunned down in…

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