Marc Jacobs’s anti-politics, from faux nails to creative freedom

Robin Givhan in The Washington Post:

Along the steps leading into the New York Public Library on the last day of June, a small crowd gathered to watch a parade of guests make their way inside for Marc Jacobs’s fashion show. The arrivals included fashion editors, stylists and friends — many of them wearing Jacobs’s designs. The more daring were dressed in recent runway ensembles, some of which made walking perilous and moving through narrow doorways a high-class geometry problem.

Actress Julia Fox wore a pale pink midi dress that engulfed her like an enormous peony, and her feet were clad in blush-colored pumps with an elongated toe that extended to comical, longboard lengths. “Saturday Night Live” star Ego Nwodim wore similar shoes in a darker tone and paired them with a tweed skirt and cropped jacket, each of which had been inflated to Willy Wonka proportions. Artist Amy Sherald was, perhaps, the most subdued of the group. She wore gray and white plaid trousers with a matching midriff-baring jacket that she tugged on gently, like a delighted child in her first-day-of-school finery.

Jacobs had not designated this collection by season. It was neither fall nor spring. It was simply runway 2026.

More here.

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Wednesday Poem

Careers

What is the life
of the old lady
standing
on the stair
print flowered
housedress
gray and orange
hair
bent
on a rail
eyes open for
jr.
bobby
jb. somebody
to come, and carry her
wish
slow
cripple woman, still does
white folks work
in the morning she gets up
creeps into a cadillac
into the florient lilac titty valleys
of blind ugliness, you think the woman loves
the younger white woman
the woman she ladles soup for
the radio she turns on when the white lady nods
she carries them in her bowed back hunched face
my grandmother worked the same
but stole things for jesus’ sake
we wore boss rages in grammer school
straight off the backs of straight up americans
used but groovy and my grandmother when she returned at night
with mason jars and hat boxes full of goods
probably asked for forgiveneess on the bus
i think the lady across from me must do the same
though she comes back in a cab, so times, it seems
have changed.

by Imamu Amiri Baraka
from To Read a Poem
by Donald Hall

Holt, Rinehart and Winston Inc., 1992


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“The Thing” And Judaism

Michael Kobre at the LARB:

IN 1975, JACK KIRBY, the “King of Comics” whose wildly kinetic art and sweeping visions had shaped the whole universe of Marvel Comics, sent a Hanukkah card to a friend, a young fan Kirby had met a few years earlier at a New York comics convention. At the time, Kirby had been living in Thousand Oaks, California, where he’d joined a Conservative synagogue, Temple Etz Chaim. An active temple member, Kirby occasionally read Torah portions at Shabbat services, visited the Hebrew School to demonstrate the art of drawing comics for the students, and later fulfilled a lifelong dream when he joined a congregational trip to Israel. So there was nothing remarkable about him sending a Hannukah card—except, that is, for the image Kirby drew on the card, which showed Ben Grimm, “the Thing,” the monstrous member of the Fantastic Four with a body that looks like it’s made of orange rocks, dressed for Shabbat services himself, in a coat and tie and wearing a yarmulke and prayer shawl. In fact, Kirby liked the image so much that he hung a copy on the wall of his studio. When guests would ask him about it, as his friend and biographer Mark Evanier remembered, Kirby would just say, “It’s a Jewish Thing.”

more here.

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Tuesday, August 5, 2025

People are spending far more time at home, there are costs to our isolation

Diana Lind in the Washington Post:

There are plenty of healthy activities available at home, of course, from playing with your children to pursuing a hobby. But there are also consequences to our homebody lifestyle. Time in the house is more likely to be time spent alone and sedentary, triggering two of Americans’ biggest mental and physical health problems — social isolation and lack of exercise.

Screens surely explain some of our turn inward, but not all of it. For example, men are spending a record 100 minutes per day on household activities, including a 50 percent increase in time spent cooking since 2003. And if our phones, tablets, and video games are as insidious as they’re often portrayed, then part of the solution needs to be finding real-life environments and activities that can compete for attention with apps and streaming services at home.

More here.

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Book Review – The Lives Of Bats: A Natural History

Leon Vlieger at The Inquisitive Biologist:

I have always had a soft spot for bats, and yet, after more than 500 reviews, this is the first bat book I cover here. Having now read this richly illustrated general introduction to their biology, I am even more engrossed with their many unique adaptations.

The Lives of Bats is part of Princeton University Press’s series The Lives of the Natural World that has grown to 14 volumes since I reviewed its entry on viruses. Technically speaking, it is designed and produced by UniPress Books, which I have described elsewhere as the spiritual successor of Ivy Press and which is similarly known for producing good-looking books. As with the other volumes, this one is chock-a-block with full-colour photos, to the point that you would be hard-pressed to find a single page of plain text.

More here.

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If you oppose the State of Israel, this post is not for you

Corey Robin at his own website:

This post is for other people, Jews and non-Jews, who read my work, people who are less settled in their position on Israel and Palestine, people who identify as Zionist or with parts of the Zionist project, who have supported, or continue to support, the military actions of the Israeli government in Gaza (even if they vehemently oppose Netanyahu), people who call for a return of the hostages and a ceasefire and say no more, people who fear that anti-Israel protests on college campuses are a sign of rising antisemitism in the US, people who believe, or hope, that Israel as a Jewish state is a cause worth defending.

This post is for you.

It’s for you because, given the way algorithms go and online communities sort themselves out, you may not have seen some developments in the last few days, among people who hold or once held views similar to yours. I’m posting these statements here just to give you a sense of how quickly opinion is changing.

More here.

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Dag Johan Haugerud’s Rich Trilogy Of Films

Joseph Fahim at Sight and Sound:

“These days, I rarely think about her. And when I do, it’s happy thoughts. Because it was so nice. Very painful, but mostly wonderful. That’s why I wrote it down. To keep it with me. I know I will never forget it, but memories change. I thought if I found the right words to describe it exactly as it was, I could capture it, make it solid. Something I could hold in the palm of my hand forever.”

For high-schooler Johanne (Ella Øverbye), the motivation for writing a novel about her hazy affair with her French teacher Johanna (Selome Emnetu) might be more complex and less obvious than her poetical declaration suggests. Her version of events – framed in misty, dream-like sequences resembling shards of her fragmented memory – is part burning recollections, part fabrication and part wish-fulfilment. Her factual reliability as a narrator is always in question, but it doesn’t matter, since the authenticity and truthfulness of what she felt over the course of that tumultuous and formative year is what matters to herself, to her mother and grandmother, to her readers and to us, the viewers.

more here.

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Arundhati Roy’s Memoir Mother Mary Comes to Me Is a ‘Soaring Account’ of a Complex Relationship

Carly Tagen-Dye in People Magazine:

Roy, who is the author of novels like Booker Prize-winning The God of Small Things and The Ministry of Utmost Happiness, had a “complex” relationship with Mary, after running away at age 18. The author says she left her mother “not because I didn’t love her, but in order to be able to continue to love her,” per the memoir’s synopsis. Mary, a women’s rights activist, was best known for winning a 1986 Supreme Court lawsuit that granted Christian women in India equal inheritance rights.

When Mary died in 2022, Roy was “more than a little ashamed” by her response to the news, and turned to the page to process her feelings. Mother Mary Comes to Me tells the story of Roy’s childhood in Kerala, India, where she was raised, as well as her path toward becoming the acclaimed author she is today. The memoir is “a soaring account, both intimate and inspirational, of how the author became the person and the writer she is, shaped by circumstance, but above all by her complex relationship to the extraordinary, singular mother,” per the book’s synopsis.

More here.

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You Are Contaminated

David Wallace-Wells in The New York Times:

Everywhere they look, they find particles of pollution, like infinite spores in an endless contagion field. Scientists call that field the “exposome”: the sum of all external exposures encountered by each of us over a lifetime, which portion and shape our fate alongside genes and behavior. Humans are permeable creatures, and we navigate the world like cleaner fish, filtering the waste of civilization partly by absorbing it.

There is plastic in salty sea foam freshly sprayed by crashing waves, in dreamy Japanese mountaintop clouds and in the breath of dolphins. When scientists test Antarctic snow, or the ice upon Mount Everest, plastics are there. When, in 2019, an explorer reached the ocean’s greatest depths in the otherworldly Mariana Trench, he found that plastics had beaten him there, too, miles past the reach of natural light.

More here.

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Tuesday Poem

Almost August

Almost August.  The year
has turned.  You can feel the light
sucking at the sand beneath your feet
as it slides away into autumn.

You think back to childhood
when the days of summer seemed
endless, and time long enough.

But, when the school bell rang,
you woke with a jolt
into the mortality of arithmetic.

After supper, it was too dark
to go out again for very long,
then just too dark to go out,
then just too dark.

So you began to learn to live
with Night, admire her,
love her a little even.

Her nights were long,
but you began to know
time was not long enough.

by Nils Peterson

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150 Years Of The Bizarre Hans Christian Andersen

Frances Wilson at the New Statesman:

There once was an ugly duckling, so despised by the other birds that he fled the farm to explore the wider world. But because of his very great ugliness he was taunted there too, until one day he caught his image reflected in a pond and he had turned into a beautiful swan. The Ugly Duckling, first published in 1843, was one of Hans Christian Andersen’s many autobiographical fairy tales: “It matters nothing if one is born in a duck-yard,” he wrote, “if one has lain in a swan’s egg.”

Andersen’s subject, from the start, was the outsider destined for greatness. “At school,” he recalled in The Fairy Tale of My Life, the third of his three memoirs, “I told the boys curious stories in which I was always the chief person, but was sometimes ridiculed for that.” His stories were miniature epics (The Princess and the Pea is 300 words long) and his characters, like the author himself, solitary figures of spiritual greatness for whom the world is a place of inexplicable cruelty. Other versions of Anderson’s life can be found in his first published fairy tale, The Tinderbox, in which a clever soldier discovers the magic formula for wealth and success; The Steadfast Tin Soldier, in which a one-legged, love-sick toy falls from a window, is swallowed by a fish, and then thrown into a stove where he melts into a heart-shaped lump; and The Little Match Girl, where a frozen, homeless child, on her last night on Earth, gazes through a window at a happy bourgeois family.

more here.

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Monday, August 4, 2025

Melania Trump, International Woman of Mystery

Gerald Early in The Common Reader:

Her book design itself seems an exercise in branding.  Only the word “Melania” on the cover. Nothing else, indicating not just fame but a sort of stardom, a woman known by only one name like singers Madonna and Beyoncé or, more fitting here, models Iman and Twiggy. Or a First Lady like Jackie, who may have been the only post-World War II president’s wife who could have published an autobiography with the same design and gotten away with it. One-third of this short book is made up of photographs of Melania, appropriate, I suppose, for a book about a model, but perhaps also a way for her to hide in plain sight, so to speak, to avoid having to talk about things she does not wish to talk about.

More here.

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AI Is Evolving — And Changing Our Understanding Of Intelligence

Blaise Agüera y Arcas and James Manyika at Noema:

Claims that computing underlies physical reality are hard to prove or disprove, but a clear-cut case for computation in nature came to light far earlier than Wheeler’s “it from bit” hypothesis. John von Neumann, an accomplished mathematical physicist and another founding figure of computer science, discovered a profound link between computing and biology as far back as 1951.

Von Neumann realized that for a complex organism to reproduce, it would need to contain instructions for building itself, along with a machine for reading and executing that instruction “tape.” The tape must also be copyable and include the instructions for building the machine that reads it. As it happens, the technical requirements for that “universal constructor” correspond precisely to the technical requirements for a UTM [a Universal Turing Machine]. Remarkably, von Neumann’s insight anticipated the discovery of DNA’s Turing-tape-like structure and function in 1953.

Von Neumann had shown that life is inherently computational.

More here.

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Paul Krugman: The General Theory of Enshittification

Paul Krugman at his own Substack:

In fact, the basic logic of enshittification — in which businesses start out being very good to their customers, then switch to ruthless exploitation — applies to any business characterized by network effects. It may go under different names like “penetration pricing,” but the logic is the same.

Doctorow’s final stage — “Then, they die” — may also be wishful thinking.

So let me talk a bit about the economics of enshittification, as I see it, then follow up by talking about how enshittification can mess with our heads in several ways. The title of this post is, of course, facetious. I don’t have a general theory to offer, just some hopefully clarifying ideas.

More here.

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As Trust in Public Health Craters, Idaho Charts a New Path

Michael Schulson in Undark Magazine:

Some 280,000 people live in the five northernmost counties of Idaho. One of the key public officials responsible for their health is Thomas Fletcher, a retired radiologist who lives on a 160-acre farm near Sandpoint. Fletcher grew up in Texas and moved to Idaho in 2016, looking for a place where he could live a rural life alongside likeminded conservatives. In 2022, he joined the seven-member board of health of the Panhandle Health District, the regional public health authority, and he was appointed chairman last summer.

PHD handles everything from cancer screenings to restaurant hygiene inspections, and the business of the board is often mundane, almost invisible. Then, this February, Fletcher issued a short announcement online. Parents, he wrote, should be informed of the potential harms of common childhood vaccines. It was time for the board to discuss how best to communicate those risks, rather than “withholding information contra the CDC narrative.” Fletcher invited everyone who believes in “full disclosure and transparency when providing informed consent on childhood vaccines” to attend the next monthly meeting of the board, on a Thursday afternoon.

More here.

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My Holy Land Vacation

Tom Bissel in Harper’s Magazine:

I listen to a lot of conservative talk radio. Confident masculine voices telling me the enemy is everywhere and victory is near — I often find it affirming: there’s a reason I don’t think that way. Last spring, many right-wing commentators made much of a Bloomberg poll that asked Americans, “Are you more sympathetic to Netanyahu or Obama?” Republicans picked the Israeli prime minister over their own president, 67 to 16 percent. There was a lot of affected shock that things had come to this. Rush Limbaugh said of Netanyahu that he wished “we had this kind of forceful moral, ethical clarity leading our own country”; Mark Levin described him as “the leader of the free world.” For a few days there I yelled quite a bit in my car.

 

More here.

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